Mt Fuji 100 mile
Kai 70K
2024
by James Mallion
A celebration of trail running in Japan
The Guts of it
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100 mile & 70 km
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April 26-27 2024
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Fujiyoshida City, Yamanashi & Fuji City, Shizuoka
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Approx. 3,400 entrants (166km Fuji 100: 2,279 participants (67.19% completion rate), 70km Kai: 1,119 participants (93.24% completion rate))
Race Photos
Reminiscing on the 2024 Mt. Fuji 100
The following report zooms in on my personal adventure conquering the challenging 70km Kai course at the 2024 Mt. Fuji 100. I’ll also briefly touch on the Fuji 100 in broad strokes and explore how the race got to where it is now as one of Asia’s most important trail races. The Mt. Fuji 100's recent debut in the World Trail Majors might be a cause for global celebration, but Japan's tradition of grueling mountain races stretches back for decades.
Long before the first Mt. Fuji 100 in 2012 (known as UTMF back then), runners in Japan were testing their mettle against legendary courses like the Mt. Fuji Climbing Race (founded in 1913, a challenging 21km with a brutal 3,000m elevation gain), the Hasetsune Cup (founded in 1993, a demanding 70km with over 4,200 meters of elevation gain), and the awe-inspiring Trans Japan Alps Race (founded in 2002, a mind-boggling 415km course with a staggering 27,000 meters of elevation gain). Allow me a few minutes to ruminate on some of these pre-UTMF years (or feel free to skip ahead if you're eager to hear about my Kai experience).
Before the ultra-trail scene exploded in the 2010s and beyond, most Japanese trail races in the late 90s and early 2000s focused on distances between 20km and 70km and were often called "mountain marathons'' or "climbing competitions" as the term “trail running” wasn’t established in Japan quite yet. While road ultras in Japan (like the famed 100km Lake Saroma ultramarathon, established in 1987) thrived at this time, trail ultras remained rare. However, as European and North American 100km+ trail races gained popularity, Japanese runners craved a similar challenge. This led to the emergence of domestic 100km trail races like the OSJ Ontake (100km) formed in 2008 and the Shinetsu Five Mountains Trail (110km) formed in 2009.
The 100-Mile Boom and UTMF's Global Ambitions
By the early 2010s, the global trail running scene was surging, with the 100-mile distance becoming the gold standard for elite competition. Races like Western States, UTMB, and Hardrock 100 were pushing the sport's boundaries. Japan wasn't immune to this trend. In 2012, the country witnessed a landmark event—the inaugural UTMF, Japan's first open-field 100-mile trail race. Over 850 runners took the starting line, instantly establishing UTMF as a major player on the global stage.
It's worth noting that the previously mentioned OSJ group was already flirting with the 100-mile format. Their 2011 Ontake race offered a limited 100-mile option for qualifiers, and the now-defunct OSJ Yatsugatake Super Trail also included a 100-mile course in the fall of 2012.
From the outset, UTMF's ambitions extended far beyond Japan. The race's partnership with the UTMB as a sister race and its inclusion in the Ultra-Trail World Tour secured international recognition, attracting corporate sponsors, media coverage, and top international competitors. This focus on the global stage undeniably propelled UTMF's rise as a coveted "bucket-list" race for runners worldwide. Furthermore, the success of UTMF inspired the emergence of other 100-mile races across Japan in the years to come, solidifying the country's position as a major player in the diverse world of ultra-trail running.
The 2024 Mt. Fuji 100: Back in the Spotlight
After a period of relative international quietude, the 2024 Mt. Fuji 100 roared back into the spotlight for several reasons. First and foremost was its inclusion in the prestigious World Trail Majors. This collaboration brought increased international recognition and a fantastic English-language live stream on YouTube, produced by Mountain Outpost. The commentary team, featuring renowned trail figures like Corrine Malcolm, Jeff Browning and Andy Jones-Wilkins added another layer of excitement for fans like myself. In fact, before even tackling the 70km Kai course, I found myself glued to the stream, following the 100-mile race that had begun 24 hours prior. And, oh yeah, there was also this runner named Courtney Dauwalter who had joined the race for the first time since winning it in 2018, perhaps you’ve heard of her? She has been known to garner a wee bit of attention wherever she goes and this year’s Fuji 100 was no different (spoiler alert she won the women’s race in dominating fashion, finishing 3rd overall).
A Dream Realized: My Journey to Kai
Personally, participating in the Mt. Fuji 100 festivities felt like a dream come true. As a dedicated runner for only a few years, balancing a demanding full-time job and a bustling family life with two young children, exploring races beyond the Kanto region (think Tokyo and the surrounding prefectures) was often a challenge. However, over the past year, I had steadily built my experience in mountain trail races, conquering distances ranging from 15km to over 100km. The 2024 Mt. Fuji 100, attracting the world's elite trail runners, held an undeniable allure. While initially unsure about tackling the full 100-mile course, the 70km Kai course ultimately proved to be the perfect fit for my schedule and family commitments.
Scoring a Spot
For most runners, gaining entry in the Mt. Fuji 100 or Kai is a lottery affair, with results announced in December several months before the race. Thankfully, I was fortunate enough to gain press access, allowing me to both experience the race as a participant and cover it as a reporter. Despite the large fields (2,676 applicants for 2,300 general Mt. Fuji 100 entries and 1,980 applicants for 740 Kai entries), the lottery system offers decent odds for those aiming to be part of this iconic event.
Mt. Fuji 100 (2024)
The Kai Course: A Closer Look
For those unfamiliar, the Kai course is the shorter option at the Mt. Fuji 100, clocking in at roughly 70km with 3,500 meters of elevation gain and a generous 21-hour cutoff (compared to the 100-mile's 44.5-hour cutoff). It essentially picks up where the 100-mile runners get drop bag access at aid station 4 (around kilometer 97). Overall Kai features steeper and more frequent climbs than the front half of the 100 mile course. Both races began at midnight, separated by twenty-four hours, creating a unique dynamic as runners from both distances shared the course for a significant portion of time.
Midnight Mayhem?
Neither the Fuji 100 nor Kai had ever featured a midnight start before 2024. While some advantages exist, like potentially cooler temperatures for certain sections, the overall consensus, including my own experience, suggests this adds to the race's difficulty. With the Fuji 100 being a major "A" race for many international competitors, a well-rested and prepared starting state seems crucial for success. Press releases indicated runners from over 34 countries participated in 2024, highlighting the race's global appeal. For the 100-mile runners, strategically planned pre-race rest and accommodation near the venue become essential for optimal performance. Options like capsule hotels with nap facilities and race-day shuttle services cater to this need.
While the 100-mile runners likely benefited from these pre-race strategies, I, being registered for the 70km Kai, arrived directly at the venue on race day. Fueled by coffee and snacks, I managed to reach the midnight start in decent shape, although a hotel stay or similar option would have certainly been ideal.
Getting to the Starting Line
The Mt. Fuji 100 offers a variety of transportation options for participants. Runners can choose from chartered buses departing from Shinjuku, Yokohama, or Mishima Station (a Shinkansen station in Shizuoka). There’s also a shuttle service connecting the race venue with local train stations, a bus terminal, and a nearby resort hotel. Then for those driving, there were plenty of paid parking lots made available during the race.
For my trip from northern Chiba prefecture, I opted for a chartered bus departing from Shinjuku station on the Friday afternoon before the race. This two-hour journey ensured I arrived with ample time to check in (which only took 30 minutes), get settled, and then face the long wait before the midnight start.
Pre-Race Jitters and Festivities
While arriving six hours early proved a safe strategy, it also left me with a surplus of downtime. The pre-race atmosphere slowly transformed from a small gathering to a full-blown party as runners streamed in by car and bus. As the clock neared midnight, the initial lull gave way to nervous excitement. With an hour to go, I joined the throngs of runners huddled near the starting line. Race director Ricka Fukuda, a Fuji local legend, took to the stage with his guitar, welcoming everyone and amping us up for our 70km journey ahead through the trails and mountains surrounding Mt. Fuji.
Hitting the Ground Running
The 70km Kai course, mirroring the full Fuji experience, presented a diverse terrain of trails, climbs, and descents. From smooth singletrack to rocky ascents requiring near-vertical scrambles, the route promised a demanding adventure. The first 5km, however, were a welcome reprieve – a road section where runners could stretch their legs. My friend, a Kai veteran, advised pushing the pace early to avoid getting stuck behind a pack on the technical trails ahead. While I wouldn't normally go out this hard so early in a long race (risking bonking later), knowing the upcoming climbs would favor hiking and walking, I embraced this strategy. For future Kai participants, this tactic of a strong early push can be beneficial, especially if aiming for a mid-to-front of the pack finish.
Milestone by Milestone
I tend to approach long races by mentally dividing them into sections, typically demarcated by aid stations. With Kai's 4 aid stations, I mapped out the course in 5 segments, using each one as a mini-goal and a chance to mentally recharge. The initial section, despite being one of the longest, proved to be the easiest. Relatively flat roads and close proximity of runners under the darkness made navigating a breeze. However, as the kilometers ticked by, the terrain steepened, runners spread out, and the distinct presence of the blue-bibbed 100-mile runners became evident. They had already been on the course for over 24 hours and nearly 100km by the time our paths merged. I won’t forget some of the envious looks I received from the 100 mile runners as they struggled to jog while I bombed downhills effortlessly early on in the Kai course.
Night Passages and Scenic Rewards
For the first 6-7 hours, I ran alongside my friend, enjoying conversation and the relatively smooth trails under the cool night sky. The weather cooperated – cloudy but comfortable, making the light jacket I was wearing unnecessary. While the almost constant cloud cover through my race obscured some of the majestic views of Mt. Fuji I'd anticipated, it also prevented overheating, a fair trade-off in my mind. Despite the sleep deprivation I was dealing with from the midnight start, tackling the first half of the course at night, which I perceived as less challenging, turned out to be a positive. From section 3 onward, the character of the course shifted. Trails became steeper, climbs more demanding, and rock faces increasingly daunting. Conquering these sections in daylight likely proved to be safer and faster than having to navigate them in the dark (as would have been the casein years past).
Fueling through the night
A midnight start presents a unique fueling challenge for both the 100-mile and 70km races. Unlike my usual routine, in which I avoid eating between midnight and 6am, runners need to find a way to keep their bodies energized throughout this timeframe. While I personally struggled at times, I managed by packing a variety of snacks and gels, and taking full advantage of the well-stocked aid stations. My pack overflowed with options like waffles, energy bars, pretzels, candy, and caffeinated drinks to keep me awake and moving. The extra weight was a worthwhile trade-off for the flexibility it offered. I still find it difficult to predict what your stomach will tolerate during a long race.
The aid stations along the Kai course were impressive, offering a delicious and diverse selection of food. Miso soup, rice balls, donuts, udon noodles, and of course, bananas, were some of the highlights that kept me fueled. Around 6am, I encountered some minor stomach issues, which I remedied by slowing down, sipping water, and utilizing some ginger chews (a personal remedy that often settles my stomach). For future night race participants, I highly recommend practicing long runs and fueling strategies during the specific race hours. This familiarizes your body with the demands it will face on race day. This advice may seem obvious and I knew this going in to Kai, but let this be a reminder to you and my future self to actually do this next time.
Conquering Kai
Mentally dividing Kai into five sections helped me navigate the course. The first section, featuring a significant portion of road running, eased me into the race. Section two marked the true beginning of the trail experience, while section three plunged us deep into the mountains with challenging climbs and descents. Sections four and five, however, proved to be the most demanding. Fatigue undoubtedly played a role in these sections, but each of these final 2 segments presented its own unique obstacles.
Section four, roughly 12km long, featured brutal climbs with inclines reaching up to 39%. These trails often forced runners to single file as we scaled near-vertical cliff faces. The reward for this arduous climb was a 1000m descent on often steep and slippery trails.
The final and longest section (approximately 18km) was a mixed bag of road and mountain running. It began with a few kilometers of road, followed by a grueling 8km mountain section with 700m of elevation gain. The final 6km offered a mix of road and gentle trail, all at a frustratingly slight uphill grade. The seemingly never-ending switchbacks on this mountain climb were particularly challenging, especially considering the rising humidity and temperatures exceeding 20°C. Despite sweating profusely due to still wearing my jacket and tights from the race's beginning, I pressed on, fueled by the knowledge that the final descent was approaching.
This final downhill section, runnable for those with remaining leg strength (a luxury many 100-mile runners likely lacked after 150+km), offered a welcome reprieve. The concluding stretch of road and light trail, while seemingly insignificant, felt agonizingly uphill after a long night and morning on the trails. Unable to muster a run, I jogged along, appreciating the support from the roadside crowds and savoring the final kilometers of my first Mt. Fuji 100 experience. This final section also brought us face-to-face with Fuji-Q Highland, a surreal juxtaposition of theme park frivolity (roller coasters and snacks) against my own state of sleep deprivation and emotional exhaustion.
Back to Reality
Emerging from the light woods surrounding Fuji Hokuroku Park, the finish line materialized before me. A surge of adrenaline propelled me into a final sprint, a cherished tradition I wasn't about to abandon. While others walked with triumphant smiles, I crossed the finish chute with a flourish, the goal line snapping taught as I broke the plane. There, waiting to greet each returning runner, once again stood Ricka Fukuda. A handshake cemented the accomplishment, a tangible reminder of the journey I'd just undertaken.
Twelve transformative hours had passed since embarking on this Kai odyssey. Reality beckoned, a world mirroring the highs and lows of the race, albeit at a slower pace. The shuttle deposited me at Mt. Fuji Station, where a limited express train whisked me back to Tachikawa (Tokyo) in luxurious comfort (a stark contrast to the previous day's cramped coach bus). A few local trains later, and I was home before dinner, a sense of accomplishment washing over me.
The inevitable post-race lull settled in, but this time, it was tinged with inspiration. The Mt. Fuji 100 and Kai are testaments to the spirit of ultra-trail running in Japan, uniting a passionate community from across the country and beyond. This 3,400-strong field, the largest I'd ever encountered, buzzed with international camaraderie, particularly with runners from neighboring Asian countries. My first foray into trail running in Shizuoka and Yamanashi prefectures left me yearning to explore more. Over twelve hours spent immersed in nature's vast canvas solidified my love for this sport.
A couple weeks removed from the race now, leaves me thinking, sure, there were moments of struggle, and the absence of a big race looming on the calendar creates a void. Yet, I'm left with a kaleidoscope of emotions: inspiration, exhaustion, elation, gratitude, and a profound sense of accomplishment that words can barely capture. If this is the transformative power of twelve hours on Kai, I can only imagine the profound impact of conquering the full 166km Mt. Fuji course, an odyssey that often consumes runners for over 40 hours. Whichever distance you choose, the Mt. Fuji 100 is an experience unlike any other, don’t hesitate to join the party if you have the chance.
James Mallion
May 20224